En la tierra de Pablo Escobar

After Cali we went to another important city in Colombia, Medellin. Medellin is a city with a very recent history, around 10 years ago was still consider one of the most dangerous cities in the world, why? because of the drug cartels and its symbolic figure - Pablo Escobar.

In our opinion Medellin is not as beautiful as other cities in Colombia but is worth visiting due to its history and to see that is quite well organized. The metrocable (subway) public transportation takes you ,in some minutes, from one side of the city to the other (and also uphill) in a comfortable, secure and fast way. In Medellin we met a group of Argentineans and some Canadians/English with whom we visited the city.

In Colombia is common to see "sell of minutes", you pay about 10cents of dollar and can make a minute phone call.

On the second day we did an interesting tour about Pablo Escobar. It is impressive how much power he had during that period. He actually said in congress that he had money to buy Colombian external debt in exchange of two states for his coca´s plantations. Although there are some people who see Pablo has a God (he helped some poor people, he put some lights in football pitches), the city lived its most dangerous period. He used to pay people for each police office murdered. People could not walk on the streets after sunset.

Pablo Escobar had countless properties around the world in order to perform his money laundering. Often white buildings symbolizing the color of coca. Pablo was a drug consumer but not a coca consumer. 

Although we say that the city does not have a beautiful downtown (with colonial or other type of buildings), we actually enjoyed walking around the main squares with statues from Botero (a recognized sculptor . Botero´s art is always with fat people or bulky objects.

We visited Botero museum, full of its statues and paintings, 

Medellin people are called "Paisas" and known for their pride of being from Medellin. In Medelin we went out to some fancy clubs where one can notice the difference in people. Girls are really good looking but here they are more white than in Cali. One interesting episode happened with us: we went out and meet some Colombian friends we met in Ecuador, and after ordering a bottle of Aguardiente to share with a group of 5 guys and 4 girls, they asked us 10USD each for 2 shots! Murta asked him "for both of us right?" "no.. in Colombia girls do not pay, so we divide it by us guys". It is its culture and we have to respect but we wouldn't forget that ahaha. Later, during the trip, when we were with a group of Argentineans they asked us if we could buy them a drink to which we replied "you are Argentineans not Colombian ahahaha"

Aguardiente is the Colombian typical drink, which is aguardiente with anise. Antioqueños (state which Medellin is the capital) are the producers of the best aguardiente of the country.

 We tried their typical food "bandeja Paisa"

 This news is somehow different from the usual news (check the bottom phrase) "My daughter fell in love with the kidnapper"

Nowadays Colombia is much much more safer than some years ago but news regarding Farc (guerrilla) are often seen as well as the Paramilitaries. This happened in the most recent years, starting with the government of Alvaro Uribe, who, despite of all contradictions from his years in the government (for example he is accused of several violations of the humans rights when supporting the Paramilitaries against the Guerrillas), definitely reduced the violence caused by these groups and turned the whole country into a more peaceful place, also improving the tourism over here. 

En Colombia se baila así!!

Depois de Quito, entramos na Colômbia por Ipiales, a cidade localizada na fronteira com o Equador. Logo de cara já nos deparamos com alguns pontos que nos surpreenderam. Primeiro que esta fronteira não era em nada, parecida com as típicas fronteiras em que já estivemos: perigosas, sem controle nenhum e cheia de tipos estranhos que marcam os estrangeiros. Pelo contrário, estivemos todo um dia nesta acolhedora cidade, onde passeamos, provamos o famoso café colombiano e fomos à missa das 17h da tarde - se você é um viajante que aprecia a interação com a vida local dos lugares aonde vai não deixe de ir a uma missa de domingo e ver pessoas locais, suas crenças e costumes e vai entender a real beleza de viajar.

 

Nosso próximo destino foi a ainda mais bonita Popayán, ainda ao sul da Colômbia e que nos encantou com seu centro histórico todo branco e a sensação de amabilidade de todos com quem conversamos. Talvez por ser uma cidade pequena, as pessoas nos tratavam como antigos amigos e em menos de 6 horas já conhecíamos vários personagens da cidade que inclusive voltávamos a encontrar-nos na praça principal, onde gastamos algumas horas lendo e comendo comidas típicas (nada melhor que uma praça principal!!!).

 As famosas Arepas Colombianas!! Arepa de queijo/ovo passou a fazer parte do nosso café da manhã.

Popayan, la ciudad Blanca

El famoso Puente de la ciudad

De Popayán fomos a capital mundial da Salsa, Cali. A terceira maior cidade da Colômbia, com aproximadamente 2,5 milhões de pessoas  a cidade é de verdade, a capital mundial da salsa. Escuta-se salsa em todos os bares, todo o tempo, 24 horas por dia. Como Francisco já tem grandes talentos naturais para a dança e inclusive aulas de salsa tomadas no Peru  não passamos vergonha e ele até pode ensinar seus passos a Coreanas, Ucranianos, Ingleses que lhe davam créditos como um verdadeiro salseiro.

 Ficamos três noites por lá e comprovamos a famosa generosidade e amabilidade Calense, onde qualquer pergunta que fazíamos por indicação já nos contavam a historia da cidade, fatos mais importantes, personalidade e aí passavam nossas horas nesta linda cidade. Notamos a linda mistura de população negra da cidade, o que torna suas mulheres beldade a serem admiradas em nossos cursos de caminhadas (ai que dor nos nossos pescoços). Na Colombia há muita muita fruta e vende-se muito sucos naturais e saladas de frutas nos kiosks de rua. No sul do País é muito comum tomar "salpicao", um suco que tem papaya, melancia, maçã e melão. Muito muito bom!

Também visitamos um Pueblo, chamado San Cipriano, onde o acesso é feito da seguinte forma: ônibus até Buenaventura, e depois, toma-se a famosa brujita. Brujita é basicamente um carrinho de rolimã enganchado na linha de trem com o motor de uma moto e conforme nosso condutor acelerava mais rápido íamos pela fechada vegetação deste local.  Algumas fotos deste pitoresco meio de transporte!!

 

Chegando lá nos deparamos com um simpático Pueblo de San Cipriano, onde se pode descer o rio em uma boia e onde nos encontramos com alguns Calenos que nos fizemos amigos. Esta região é habitada quase totalmente por uma população negra, descendente de escravos trazidos da África em períodos coloniais. Por lá ficamos todo um dia e as pessoas nos chamavam para entrar em suas casas, assistir o jogo do Barcelona contra o Real e tomar cervejas juntos. Que povo incrível!!

 

Nossas primeiras impressões da Colômbia foram a amabilidade da gente, a forte influência negra na cultura local (diferente de outros países como Equador, Peru ou Bolívia), a ótima comida (voltamos a comer feijões em todas as refeições), a beleza de suas mulheres e os preços, que são os mais caros até agora. Enfim, que viva Colômbia!! 

Quito con familia Cueva

Last stop in Ecuador was in its beautiful capital, Quito! Here, we were hosted by Ana and her family (Ana is friend of Pedro Murta from CISV and Joao Murta - she hosted Joao last year). Staying at Ana´s was really good! we got to know the city very well, we ate the typical food of Sierra, and because we hang out with her and her friends (we went to a Chiva party, a bitrthday in a bus that goes along the city for a couple of hours) and parents (Cesar and Eni, very very friendly with us).

Beautiful Quito by night

We met some argentineans that joined us for a Canelaso (typical drink - we must say that we loved it, a warm alchool drink made of cinnamon and aguardiente).

 

The historical center is located in the south part of the city. the north is more residential.

 Although we saw that sign, we kept walking and nothing happen. The city might have its dangerours parts but we walked everywhere and never felt unsecured.

 On the third day, "vamos Liga!". We went to see the local team against Gremio de Portalegre, a game to qualify for Libertadores (South America Champions League). La Liga de Quito won the match but didnt qualify (they lost the second match in Brazl in penalties). Some well known players were playing for Gremio, Dida, Ze Roberto, Elano, Cris.

Middle of the world. First we visited the monument that states the middle of the world and later we went to the middle of world shown in a military GPS. We did the experiences that shows that we were in the middle of the world: the egg experience? hm.. we got to know that is possible to do it at home although it is much more difficult (Murta couldn't do here but was able to do it in the GPS centre of the world;  the experience with the water is worth seeing, apparently the water swirl goes to one side in the north hemisphere and clockwise in the south hemisphere. Near the monument it is possible to see a huge mountain - which was know to be the middle of the world during the Inca Empire, impressive no? how could they be so close to the real zero degrees of latitude.

Saturday, before going to Ana´s farm (5h from Quito), we visited Otavalo, a traditional indigenous market very colourful and where you can find anything. The Incas created the market since it was a common spot to stop on their trips to north or south. 

 In Ana´s farm in the border wth Colombia, we walked around and ride horse. Amazing the landscapes here.

Once again, MANY THANKS Cuevas for receiving us the way you did! Please call us if you come to Brazil/Portugal